Ridge Racer Upright Arcade Machine Fix + Restoration

I got myself a Ridge Racer upright cab yesterday which was for sale on Facebook of all places… The chances of finding your grail cab on Facebook… who would of thought huh?

It had been left in a very cold industrial warehouse for about 4 years so naturally I had to go and save it! The guy bought it with the intention of putting it in his man cave but never fixed the screen and was about to move so it had to go.

Image

Got there and all the stuff he posted about was obviously there. Sadly the coin mech wasn’t mounted properly and had damage to the mounts the foot rest was completely gone and a few other bits which weren’t mentioned were apparent but most importantly the PCB was showing signs of life so naturally… with this being my grail cab, local and in need of TLC I paid the man and made off with my new project.

After getting it inside and giving it a quick test to see if it had survived the journey i left it to rest in it’s new home for a bit.

This morning, the work began! Restoration and various fixes for this poor little cab which has been in storage for many, many years. Now, so far I know the screen doesn’t work (possible chassis?) but it has no screen burn which is good as you can see below.

Image

The accelerator is stuck on, the light on the marquee is out so i need a new 18″ tube and starter. It also needs a fair bit of TLC/cleaning as it is filthy inside and needs painting in various places.

Here is how it stood yesterday:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Now I’ve begun removing the chassis to be sent off for repairs but I’ve stopped at this…

Image

… because I’m a wimp haha. Seriously though upwards of 30,000 volts… no thank you! Plus i don’t have any of the right tools for the job even if i wanted to so I’m stuck here for now.

I began to do the rest of it though giving it a good clean out and removing parts to be checked and cleaned but also giving myself more room to work with inside the cab.

Image

Image

Image

Image

I managed to find the cover for the I/O board thankfully. it was hidden away inside the cab..

Image

I’ve also removed the power supply ready for when my multi meter arrives so i can do some more tests on it make sure all the voltages are ok. It could also do with some TLC so i plan to put a new fan on it and a new fan guard as the one that is on it is flaking badly.

I’ve also noticed the coin mech is missing some parts to attach it to the door and it also needs locks all around as all the keys are gone. Luckily all the doors and panels are open so no big deal.

I’ve also got these to look at…

Image

The accelerator is stuck on for some reason so I need to work out whats going on there.

 

I’ve just made my way into the top after some good old struggles with alen key bolts.

Going to order a new tube and a new starter.

Image

Image

had a quick look on ebay and 5 starters + an 18 inch tube came to less than £5 posted so I’ve just gone ahead and ordered those.

I’ve just wrestled the locks off and am currently looking for replacements.

Image

I’m happy to report the chassis is now off thanks to aeroflott aka Tony who is the Missle Command world record holder. MASSIVE thanks goes out to him for coming and doing the discharge on my monitor. Such a nice guy!

Image

I’ve just ordered a complete new set of locks with matching keys for it.

I’m also going to be taking these coin doors off soon and they are off to be sand blasted and primed ready for some new paint.

Image

 

Had some goodies in the post today! PSU fan cover replacement and lock set.

Image

Image

Image

Time to give that PSU a good clean out and change that nasty fan cover!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I thought I would have a look at the ROM board and see if its all clean or needs compressed air going over it. Turns out it was absolutely mint!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Ok well I couldn’t work out a way to test it so I’ve put it back in the cab now and connected everything up I will unplug the PCB and test the voltages that way.

Before putting it back in I thought I would have a look at the ROM board and see if its all clean or needs compressed air going over it. Turns out it was absolutely mint!

Took the fan off and cleaned that too.

Image

Got some more bits done today!

New back panel for the monitor (to be painted black).

Image

This next part might ruffle some feathers of those who like originality. It actually annoys me alittle to be honest but I really have no choice as the chip board is so rotten I’ve had to cut the remaining parts of what was the foot board away, i may rebuild it later but for now it will do.

Image

Image

Needs tidying up and some glue to hold the rubber down but will do for now.

Shortened the metal plates down for the bottom of the unit.

Image

Image

Getting there. Also thankfully even without those front legs sticking out it is still perfectly stable even if you lean it forward.

Should be ready for the big switch on next week, then i can finally check those pedals out and the voltages.

Getting there!

ell ladies and gents… shes ALIVE! Big smile Thanks goes out to Gunblade for his excellent work on my chassis.

Image

Now with all excitement out the way there are some things i need a bit of help with…

I need to know is there a way to adjust the pedal on the actual thing itself. the pedal works just fine but it seems to be out of wack… I’ve gone into the test settings and it is clearly out of its default area..

Image

Also the eagle eyed of you will notice there is a bunch of white dots over the screen these are always there and move slowly then speed up and move faster it’s very strange. RAM chip on it’s way out maybe?

New exhaust fan arrived

Image

Image

Image

I also tried to fit the gear decal to the metal plate but it wouldn’t stick at all the back of the decal was pretty dry I prepped the area before trying to fit it so i don’t think it was an error i made or lack of prep work but anyway I’ve rubbed it down the best i can for now and its semi shiny so it will be ok for the minute till i can work out another way to put the the original “high low” text on it.

Still need to get those coin mech doors painted but other than that it’s pretty much there

Starting with the screen, it always had dust inside but i never thought the screen would come up as well as it did…

Before:

Image

Image

Image

Image

After:

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Was having a clear up today so had a chance to get a good picture of the cab as it stands today

Image

Image

i found the original foot rest bar and put it in place so it doesn’t look like the cab has been altered.

Image

Image

We are having building work done on the house so the cab is tucked away in a corner but tonight i put the “high low” sticker back on the shifter.

Image

One major update today, I’ve ordered a Ridge Racer 2 PCB from the states.

Image

Image

Image

Decided to prep the machine for the arrival of the RR 2 PCB.

Image

Image

Image

I’m happy to report that the board has arrived and the board is now running great!

Image

Image

To do’s:
Remove PSU and recap it (maybe other components if needed?)
Service steering wheel as it is making some pretty rough noises when turning
Move accelerator/brake pedals down so they are closer to the ground so i can use it without something under my feet
Possibly send my RR 2 board to Namco and get this texture issue resolved
Drill new brackets inside for RR 2 shell as it is longer than my original RR 1 board so i need screw mounts fitting inside so i can swap and change the boards when i feel like it
Possibly install a new fan to the PCB shell?
Repaint coin mech doors
Spray rear panel for the monitor black so it matches the cab
I’ve gone ahead and removed the PCB and power supplyImageImage

Noticed this… some wires have been chopped about… this is the 240v feed to the PCB fan and everything up top (monitor/chassis/marquee light) Could this perhaps be the cause of my poor grounding? Any advice on the best way to clean this up?

Image

Both RR 1 and RR 2 PCB’s side by side

Image

Power supply out and ready for capacitors to be removed, values checked and ordered then fit new caps

Image

Time to really work on getting this cab back in shape Clap If anyone has any other suggestions for what i can do for either the board(s)/PSU/cab itself do let me know. Want to give it some really good TLC.

Stripped it down to take note of the cap values and inspect them

http://ridgeracer.co.uk/pro/rrarcade/77.jpg

They are all Nichicon caps which i presume is a good brand I seem to recall that name being a fairly good brand?

Anyway upon inspection they all look to be in extremely good, clean condition.

http://ridgeracer.co.uk/pro/rrarcade/78.jpg

http://ridgeracer.co.uk/pro/rrarcade/79.jpg

http://ridgeracer.co.uk/pro/rrarcade/80.jpg

http://ridgeracer.co.uk/pro/rrarcade/81.jpg

Tech note:

Capacitor list for power supply PCB’s

Mainboard 2EA00A761

C22 25v 47uF
C21 50v 33uF
C65 50v 33uF
C66 25v 47uF
C72 50v 33uF
C55 25v 47uF
C53 25v 47uF
C54 25v 47uF
C56 25v 47uF
C61 10v 2200uF
C62 10v 2200uF
C63 10v 2200uF
C64 10v 1000uF
C58 16v 330uF
C57 16v 1000uF
C19 400v 220uF

Secondary board EA10A761

C16 400v 330uF
C15 400v 330uF

Just replaced the extremely poor connectors used for the 240v feed to the monitor/marquee/fan. Those blue connectors were really dodgy don’t look like the sort of thing that should be carrying 240v at all..

Image

Image

Image

Image

I’ve been racking my brains thinking about what to do. I think i will get a new PSU in time but as it is working at the moment i see no reason to make a problem out of something where there isn’t one.

“If it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”

I would like to be cautious with it given it’s age though so it will be replaced eventually for now though i just gave it a good clean and put it all back together. I then tested the voltages again, all of which were solid as a rock.

Image

System 22 board 5v feed:

Image

I/O board 5v feed:

Image

I/O board 12v feed:

Image

It’s pretty crazy that the entire System 22 board runs off 5 volts. The only 12v going into this is on the I/O board. No wonder the power supply is rated at 30A on the 5v rail… Finding a replacement PSU with 30A on 5v won’t be cheap.

Took the resistor out today and tested it

Image

Image

Seems to be fine after all. Unless .2 will make a difference? Or is that down to the tolerance?

I fitted it back to the machine and thought i’d try it while it’s plugged in. I’m not sure if this is normal but if i try the multi meter on it from one direction it shows nothing at all on the screen. If i try it the other way around i get this:

Image

Better pictures of the dots issue, still need to resolve this

Image

Image

Got a bulb for the coin slot today

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Need to get those doors off or replace them for some nice ones soon for sure it will begin to start looking rather good then!

Had a bit of a clear up this evening and had chance to move the cab out and take some proper pictures of it.

It’s coming together slowly…

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I’ve decided to take a stab in the dark…

I’ve ordered one of these (SCHAFFNER FN 283-6-06)

Image

I removed my mains filter for testing and it actually smelt of burnt electronics and had some sort of brown substance around it as if something had been leaking out from inside.

Might this be the cause of the interference on screen? we shall see….

I’m also working on getting the coin doors off for painting and ordered some lithium grease for all the moving parts inside the cab.

I’m also thinking some point down the line i want to remove the red section where the steering wheel is and send it off for repainting as it’s chipped in the one corner so could really benefit from being sprayed.

Ok it arrived… I have to say these newer ones are LOADS lighter than the originals LOL

Image

Image

Now, did it fix the dots issue….?

……….

….

.

Image

Of course not…!

On a brighter note:

Image

Image

Image

Those pedals have always been dry as a bone, they move a lot nicer now, steering mech up next…

Sadly not I literally have no spares as I’m not a collector of arcades. I hit a wall when it comes to testing as i lack parts/spares to work with.

I was thinking of feeding the screen the RGB signal from my PSone (it runs on a RGB scart) but i have no idea what adaptor i would need or anything. if one even exists.

Done a bit more work on the cab, I had to remove the PCB to get to the steering mech so while i was doing this i thought I’d swap out my RR 2 board for my RR 1 board as it’s not been run for awhile and i like to keep them both in use regularly.

Image

Greased good and proper, moves alot nicer and no rough noises now but there is still that knocking noise for some reason I’m guessing a bearing or something is shot. It works flawlessly though so no biggie right now.

Image

My 2 PCB’s

Image

Today, we begin getting involved! I’ve ordered 320 grit sand paper, Hammerite “hammered” black spray paint and a set of alan keys to start stripping the marguee and front panel/steering/gear shifter.

Image

PSU and PCB removed.

Image

Now, onto the interesting part which may be something to do with the dots issue!

I noticed there are scratch marks from where the tray which has the PSU/PCB on it slides in and out. I looked and someone has replaced the screws with some wood screws!

Image

And funnily enough… there is a earth here!

Image

This has been like this since i got it so this could be a poor earth causing the dots.

Need to get me some of these… any idea what they are called?

Image

I also noticed this wire was loose from somewhere… I’m guessing the coin mech PCB

Image

as well as this, no I’m assuming this is an alarm for the coin mech doors.

Image

Looking at the other coin door there is another one which is in the same sort of state

Image

Image

I’m guessing these are the original coin mech door alarms or something as on other cabs i have noticed the holes below have a lock in place which most likely disarms the alarm when these switches are triggered.

Image

Overall though, it’s a start and some interesting finds. the wireing other than this is absolutely perfect no breaks or anything anywhere.

Next up: front panel off, marquee panels removed, sand blasted and painted as well as the coin mech doors which I’m going to have a go at my self. Time to give the little cab some TLC.

Image

Got some bits in this morning, quick little test:

Image

Gunna get those off and do it properly but looking good so far, 320 grit does a perfect job on metal.

Think I’ll do these too:

Image

Had a go at sanding it but i think my sandpaper is too fine (320 grit) so it’s removing the loose stuff but not the harder stuff.

Image

I’ve arranged with a mate of mine to have them sand blasted for free so they are off to have that done as it saves me messing about and will be a better job anyway.

the pedal panel is off for the same treatment too.

Getting involved now!

Image

Image

Can’t wait to see how they will look with this all over them

Image

Added some new mounts, much better and should give that earth much better grounding.

I also replaced the bolts on the mains filter mount as they were rounded off and old.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Fitted a new bolt mount for the RR 2 PCB as its slightly longer. I had it wood screwed in before but as i will be swapping and changing between the 2 boards i’ve made it so it’s easily removed without damaging the PCB wood panel.

Image

Drilled some holes into the new mains filter and also the metal bracket so i can secure it far better than the original ever was.

I’m also removing the panel to get rid of that nasty brown mark.

Image

Image

Looking much better! that hammerite is good stuff although it’s very oily/wet needs quite a few coats to look nice and takes some time to dry off.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Marquee panels and control panel all removed

Image

Image

Image

Replacement/test power supply arrived

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

I need to get some multi meter leads before i can start adding the adaptors and wires where they need to go. For now though i removed the 3.3v wires as they aren’t needed.

Image

Image

I’ve removed the 5V standby, power good and also -12V wires too now. I’ve also put the PC ON to ground so it will fire up when it gets mains power. Just need my multimeter cables now so i can match the terminal blocks with the correct voltages and then test it to see if it sorts those dots out.

Image

Image

Well ladies and gents i am BUZZING right now!

All I will say for now is SUCCESS!!!!! Big smile

Started building my PSU today

Image

Almost done:

Image

Done and time for voltage checks:

Image

Image

All voltages were stable as a rock so it was time for testing…

and…

..

.

Image

NO DOTS!

Image

I am over the moon, the picture is absolutely stunning now. I always had a thought it might be the power supply and turns out, it was…

Good times!

On another note, a friend of mine is sand blasting my coin doors for me so should have an update on those in the week.

Finally got round to painting up the back panel i made up for the chassis/monitor enclosure.

Image

Image

Image

Looks much better at last.

Removed the worn out wooden bars on the back and gave it a polish, it’s really coming together now

Image

Image

Polished up the rest of the cab, it’s finally black all over

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Can’t wait to get the doors back and spray them up, it’s going to look great.

Also really, really loving this screen… the picture is stunning!

Image

Todo:

Secure new PSU + cable tie wires
Spray coin doors and pedal panel + refit
Glue loose strip down on the bottom right front corner
Move pedals down closer to the floor to compensate for the lack of foot rest
In time, get the red panels powder coated but I’m in no rush at the moment

Image

Afew little touch ups this evening. There are a number of chips all over the cab which i have touched up and now you can hardly see a lot of them. Certainly looks better than before.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Little bit more work tonight, redoing the pedal panel bolts

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

The coin doors and pedal panel should be stripped tomorrow and I should be able to get a few coats of paint on them later tomorrow. Going to look awesome!

First panel done…

Image

Blasted and primed ready for nice new paint. Can’t wait to spray these up later!

Got the parts home ready to spray, didn’t have time to do the one last coin door so that will be tomorrow most likely but for now, we can spray the other parts

Image

Image

Image

A few more light coats to go and should be all ready to fit!

I also got very, very lucky on eBay. I managed to win a BRAND NEW power supply for this cab…

Image

Will need to have my connectors soldered to it’s board as it currently has molex connectors but overall, what a find!!! You can’t find these used online let alone brand new! Great to be putting the proper power supply back into my cab. Clap

Only £14 as well! Crazy!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Pedals are back in

Image

Image

Had to reset all the values for the pedals as they were off due to me removing things and greasing things up

Image

It’s really coming together at last!

Image

Image

Last door done, looks great now!

Before:

Image

And now:

Image

Image

Image

Really, really happy with how they have turned out. It looks so much nicer now.

It’s pretty much done for now, just need to refit the new PSU i ordered when it arrives and then it’s all done

Replacement power supply arrived

Image

Image

Image

Image

Same revision and everything, what luck coming across that!!

Just need to solder on the wires + adaptors to the new PSU and we are good to go!

Swapped all the cables over which needed to be swapped

Image

Image

5V testing

Image

12V testing

After some long voltage tests, it is now hooked up and working great!

Image

Image

Another quick little touch up this morning

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

One more little upgrade today, conventional bulb on the coin door swapped out for a pure white, much lower wattage LED bulb.

Image

Image

Before:

Image

After:

Image

Image

Replaced all the rusty screws as i went so it’s at least looking abit better than when i took it apart.

Image

Looks considerably better with those new bolts.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Finally got round to sorting the T molding on either side of the cab!

Before…

Image

Image

After!

Image

Image

Image

Machine is pretty much done now, it’s been a long journey but it feels so good to finally be at a stage where it is looking great and running great!

Image

Image

The screen looks fantastic and sharp!

Image

Pretty much done at this point!

Image

One last thing left, a good polish!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Time to set some world records on the beast!

Project complete!

Well, not quite… 😉

My cab has finally made it to my room! I was actually going to sell it as we are struggling for space but i took all the red panels off and it was possible then to get it up the stairs and get it into my room!

Image

Image

Image

Image

This could get time consuming…

screen alignment…

Image

Took me awhile to get it right and i managed to get a belt off something while i had my hand over the chassis too ClapLOL first shock from my cab, hopefully the last. I also turned the contrast and brightness up a bit.

The result, the screen looks fantastic now!

Before:

Image

Image

After:

Image

Image

Image

Image

All the boxes are straight now on the demo screens and the image looks a lot sharper.

Great stuff!

Sooo… yeah, when i said this thread/restoration was over… I guess i was kidding myself. LOL

Now it’s in a room where i can get at it, I’m going to finish it up. Starting with this:

Image

The coin mech PCB has always been left floating around and when you open the door there is a risk of the solder points touching the metal coin doors so as i don’t plan to use coins on this possibly ever again, I plan to remove what remains. The coin slot light has started to flicker and all sorts too so i needs looking at anyway.

Off with the PCB

Image

Cut the wires and hot glued the ends so they don’t touch anything

Image

The ground and 12V i left out to connect to the old bulb socket

Image

Image

Image

All done! No more flickery light and i can also open the door now without any worries of sparks flying.

ImageSooo… yeah, when i said this thread/restoration was over… I guess i was kidding myself. LOL

Now it’s in a room where i can get at it, I’m going to finish it up. Starting with this:

Image

The coin mech PCB has always been left floating around and when you open the door there is a risk of the solder points touching the metal coin doors so as i don’t plan to use coins on this possibly ever again, I plan to remove what remains. The coin slot light has started to flicker and all sorts too so i needs looking at anyway.

Off with the PCB

Image

Cut the wires and hot glued the ends so they don’t touch anything

Image

The ground and 12V i left out to connect to the old bulb socket

Image

Image

Image

All done! No more flickery light and i can also open the door now without any worries of sparks flying.

Image

Called the painters today as i thought they might not be quite so busy after new year. There said they were quiet so it’s the perfect time to get the panels off and get them resprayed!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Top panel was also removed to be sprayed. Off to the painters!

Image

Image

Lots of colors! I finally went with this one…

Image

It’s the closest match to the color of the side art (which is the color these panels were originally I’m told) It will be that color but without the sparkles in it.

I’m also going over the entire cab now while it’s completely apart and tidying the entire thing up and also giving all the wiring a good going over. I’m adding some new bolts where needed so the entire machine will have had all new bolts now. I’m also going to take the steering apart and find out why it knocks and also replace the gear stick with a better condition one.

I’ve removed the foam which protects the glass and ordered some new stuff.

Image

I’ve also stripped down the gear stick. I was going to replace this but it’s not in bad shape so it will be fine. Just going to clean it (done already) grease it up and also put a new decal on the front.

Image

Image

Image

Working on refurbishing the gear stick, I’m removing everything, cleaning it up and lubricating as i go with high quality grease.

Image

Image

Image

I’ve also got a new decal coming for it

Also got round to sorting out a long term problem the machine has had where the back door doesn’t sit flush due to the wood inside the cab being worn away from the lock. I found a metal plate today which will stop this being a problem.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Sits nice and flush now! Great stuff!

Image

The panels are being sprayed at the painters currently, can’t wait to get them back. Another update and perhaps the biggest of all is I’ve actually purchased a Rave Racer twin cabinet.

Image

Unfortunately it was being broken for parts as both monitors are completely dead and the seller just wanted the cab out of the way so instead of it going to the scrap (which is where it was most likely headed) I purchased all the parts from this machine. The machine itself is a Japanese import which means I have a nice pair of steering wheels (awesome import Namco center cap versions). My steering has always had a rather annoying knocking sound so i will be changing my steering mech to stop this and I will also replace the wheel with one off of this cab as it looks much, much nicer!

Image

I should also mention that I’ve been in contact with a fairly local arcade who has a Rave Racer cab which is really on it’s last legs and needs link up boards, control panels, pedals, all sorts so i’ve offered to donate the ones i get from this machine to them to make their machine a lot nicer. I hate seeing any machine broken up to be honest but he was beginning to strip the machine when i called him and i don’t have any room for a twin cab.

Will be good that it’s helping another cab though in a live arcade environment.

Panel before:

Image

And…

After:

Image

Image

Time to reassemble!

Image

Image

Image

Time to fit the marquee and see the color match up! Clap

Image

Image

Image

Looking good! Time for the control panel.

Image

They also fitted new bolts all around! Top job!

Image

Speakers going on..

Image

New foam to project the screen glass fitted..

Image

Image

Hmmmm… black or original stainless bolts… choices choices…

Image

Gotta keep it original…

Image

Looking good with the brand new bolts!

Image

One last little touch, the green sign..

Image

Looking pretty good now!

Image

Back monitor panel refitted, was going to have a NAMCO vinyl on it but it arrived today and was so old the adhesive was gone so… in the bin that went.

Image

Overall, very, very happy with the outcome of this! The Rave Racer arcade parts arrive tomorrow so i will be fitting the new Namco steering wheel and better steering mech. I will also hopefully get my shifter decal from Muddymusic in the post tomorrow too so i can fit my gear stick as well with a nice fresh decal.

Good times! A barn find well and truly brought back from the dead.

Image

So, the gear decal arrived!

Time to fit, and get this machine DONE!

Image

Image

Image

Image

All fitted! Looking great now!

Image

And with that… It’s done! I’ve decided to leave the foot board, It works as it is. It may not be original but hey, for a barn find which it literally was… It’s done bloody well in my book.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Here is a list of all the work i’ve done on the cab…

Chassis refubished
Custom PC Power supply made to test PSU causing dots on screen and later power supply replaced with new original replacement
New marquee light flo bulb + starter
New locks all around
Coin doors stripped, primed and resprayed
Pedal panel resprayed with new bolts which are also stripped, primed and resprayed black
New monitor/chassis rear panel + painted black
New gear stick decal + complete strip down, clean and regrease
New exhaust fan
Wiring clean up and removal of dodgy connectors with proper block connectors
New mains filter (SCHAFFNER FN 283-6-06)
Mains filter bracket and mains switch bracket sanded down and resprayed
New coin door LED bulb
Pedals greased and aligned properly
Wooden board which hold the PCB and PSU screw hole brackets replaced
New screws on the PCB wooden panel
New screws on the marquee light panel
New alan key bolts all around the machine
Damaged wooden bars on the rear of the machine removed
Exterior chipboard touched up and returned to black color
Remaining rotten foot rest chipboard removed and T molding cut to size and fitted either side to make it look original
Original footboard metal plate fitted to the bottom of the cabinet to make it look original without the footrest
New center panel lock fitted as it was originally
Holes filled with flat head bolts which were also sprayed black
Screen alignment fixed
Marquee panel and control panel resprayed in red
New foam fitted for the control panel where the glass sits
Fitted metal plate for the rear lock bar, chipboard worn out causing rear door to not sit flush
Steering wheel center cap replaced with a nicer rare Namco center cap version (from a Rave Racer import)
Pedals replaced for longer reach, shiny pedals

Some before and after comparison shots:

Image

Image

Image

DONE!

Image

One last final touch…

The steering has always had a knock when turning I intended to fix it with the Rave Racer parts however they were completely different so thanks to a kind UK VAC member I managed to purchase a better condition Happ steering mech.

Image

Image

Image

Unfortunately the “new” mech came damaged the and the cogs weren’t lined up i could of straightened them out but instead i just used my bar as the potentiometer had the correct wiring for my loom anyway so easier to just swap them over

Image

The old mech

Image

New and old mech side by side

Image

Something else i noticed was the newer mech was missing a spring, of course i have these so it was a case of remove one and fit it… took about half an hour to get the spring back on… real pain in the …

Image

Image

Fitted to the panel…

Image

Putting the potentiometer back on

Image

Now i had a look at the blocks for the steering wheel to fit on to and the newer one had been worked on and was missing the woodruff key so i choose to use my original one with my original wheel.

Image

Removing the original parts

Image

Woodruff key fitted to the new mech

Image

Block back on…

Image

new bolts for the steering wheel

Image

All done

Image

I’m happy to report that this was a success and the steering is silky smooth now with no knocks what so ever!

One last thing… (yes i will finish this one day i swear!)

I’ve always had to play this with my feet raised to compensate for the foot board being missing but I had a brain wave today about the pedals… I had a think about those Rave Racer pedals which were similar to mine but they had adjustment holes which i never thought to look at on mine.

Image

I had a look and they do indeed have adjustment! It makes sense as the Deluxe cab pedals sit at a different angle to mine but they are both Happ controls. I adjusted them to the lowest setting possible with the hope that there was enough distance on the pedals to go full throttle etc but also low enough to the floor to use comfortably and without raising my feet on a box. LOL

After adjusting one pedal i reset the values.

Image

After that i went back into the test menu to test the pedal and….

Image

1449 out of the desired 1500, i can live with that!! As you can see on the next picture the machine gives an “OK” notice when it reaches 1500 but honestly, 50 less isn’t going to make a lot of difference.

Image

A quick test in game…

Image

Works perfectly! You can really see how much adjustment has been made with the picture above.

After i knew it would play ok I then did the other one…

Image

It really does look original now even without the foot board and you can play it perfectly on the floor like you would the original foot board. Even better news is once i fitted the pedals back in place i was getting a value of 1489 on both pedals in the test menu, 11 less than desired by Namco. It plays perfectly in game.

Image

Happy days! Can’t believe that solution was there all this time and i never even thought about it. That being said, it wouldn’t of worked originally as the pedals were too short. Thanks to the Rave Racer pedals i fitted which are longer it is now possible. Funny how things work out.

Image

Cab really is finished now, good times!